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2/22/2011--Seattle, WA, USA..One of the most buzzed about restaurants in town, Sitka and Spruce (1531 Melrose Avenue, 206-324-0662, www.sitkaandspruce.com) looks like a classy college dining room with a long refectory table surrounded by a few smaller tables, concrete floors, exposed brick and duct work.  But there's nothing sophomoric about the food...Here: Puget Sound smelt with stinging nettles and preserved lemon at $11..©2011 Stuart Isett. All rights reserved.